TEST STANDARD |
| Fabric Testing and Specifications |
Characteristic |
Test Method |
End Use |
Specification |
| Abrasion resistance |
ASTM D-3884-80(50 to 100 cycles)(300 to 500 cycles) |
Corduroy 7.0 oz.Natural fiber |
ASTM photo standards 3.5 face and back |
| Bursting strength |
ASTM D-3786 |
Weak knits or resin treated |
Minimum 55 psi |
| Flammability |
CPSC 16 CFR1610 |
All |
Class 1 |
| Seam slippage |
ASTM D-434 |
All |
Skirts, dress, blouses, shirts: 15 lbs. Pants, jeans, jackets:25 lbs. |
| Tensile strength |
ASTM D-5034-grab method |
Blse, skirt, dresses Short, pant, jeans, jackets |
| To exceed 25 lbs. |
| Toexceed 50 lbs. |
| Wonme's 40 lbs. |
|
| pile loss for napped fbcs |
ASTM D-4685 |
All pile fabrics |
Astm photo stds at grade 3.5 min. |
| Tearing strength |
ASTM D-1424 |
Blse, skirt, dresses |
To exceed 1.5 lbs. |
| |
|
Short, pant, jeans, jackets |
To exceed 2.5 lbs. |
| Fabric weight |
Suter punch |
All |
(+/-)3.0% from standard |
| Carefree smoothness |
AATCC 143 |
All |
3.5 per plastic replicas |
| Fabric/Carefree cerase retention |
AATCC 88C |
All |
3.5 per plastic replicas |
| Garment/Carefree crease retetion |
AATCC 143 |
All |
3.5 per plastic replicas |
| Carefree seam smoothness on graments |
AATCC 143 |
All |
3.5 per replicas |
| Formaldehyde content |
JIS-L-1041 |
All |
75 ppm maximum |
| Seam breaking strength |
ASTM 1683-90 |
All |
25 Lbs All, 15 Lbs Silks or linens |
| Thread count (Wales X courses) |
ASTM D-3887 |
All |
(+/-)5% |
| *Dimensional stability and |
AATCC 150 |
When applicable |
(-3% LxW) not exceed |
| appearance after laundry one time |
|
|
(-5% LxW) for woven stretch fabrics. |
| cycle only no restoration. |
|
|
No growth allowed and must contain 2% or more |
| |
|
|
spandex fiber |
| *Dimensional stability and |
AATCC 158 |
When applicable |
(-3% LxW) not exceed |
| appearance after dry cleaning one |
|
|
(-5% LxW) for woven stretch fabrics. |
| time only. |
|
|
No growth allowed and must contain 2% or more |
| |
|
|
spandex fiber |
| Fabric Testing and Specifications,Continued |
| Fabric Testing and Specifications Table (continued) |
Characteristic |
Test Method |
End Use |
Specification |
| Elongation/Growth/Recovery |
Dupnont PTM 074 |
All bottom weight/lycra |
15-20% min elongation |
| |
|
Goods (over/150gr/sqyd) |
3.6 to 4.4% max growth |
| |
|
|
96% recovery |
| |
Dupnot PTM 077 |
All top weight/lycra |
Min 25% elongation |
| |
|
Goods(under/150gr/sqyd) |
5.4 to 6.6% max growth |
| |
|
|
94% recovery |
| Stretch/Recovery |
ASTM -D-3107 |
All bottom weight stretch |
15 to 20% min elongation |
| |
|
goods |
96% recovery |
| |
ASTM-D-3107 |
All top weight stretch |
Min 25% elongation |
| |
|
goods |
94% recovery |
| Abrasion Martindale |
ASTM 4966 |
All |
No ruptures @10,000 cycles-self fabric |
| Abrasion Flex |
ASTM 3885 |
All |
1,000 cycles, minimum |
| Abrasion Flat (Frosting) |
AATCC 229 |
All |
1,200 cycles Grade 3 |
| Bowing and Skewing |
ASTM-3882 |
All |
Bowing-max.1-inch. |
| |
|
|
Skewing-max. 3% of width or 1.5" max. |
| Water Drop Test |
AATCC 79 |
All Stain Repel Goods |
Initial #6,20xWash #4 |
| Oil Drop Test |
AATCC 118 |
All Stain Repel Goods |
Initial #6,20xWash #4 |
| *Divisions can request multiple wash/dry clean test requirements for novelty fabrics and embellishments for shrinkage and evaluations. |
| Testing of Dark Colors or Pigments for Crocking |
| Purpose To determine if dark colors & pigments have acceptable crocking (rubbing) |
| performance brfore they are sewn into garments. |
| Scoope TO determine if dark shades, including but not limited to blacks, indigos,browns, reds are accptable before winding up in our garments. |
Test Method |
Reauirements |
Results |
AATTC#8 |
|
Dark Shades (Black, Red, Navy) |
If fabric fails this test, it should be washed |
| |
|
Dry 4 or better |
further at the mill. If it is in garment form |
| |
|
Wet 2.5 or better |
and requires a wash after treatment, further |
| |
|
Pigments Dry 3.5 or better |
rinsing is required to obtain a passing grade |
| |
|
Wet 2.5 or better |
and the division needs to be contacted for |
| |
|
Indigo Dry 3 or better |
approval if it fails. |
| |
|
Wet 2 or better |
|
| Fabric Testing and Specifications,Continued |
| Fabric Testing and Specifications Table (continued) |
Test Method |
End Use |
Specification |
| Dupnont PTM 074 |
All bottom weight/lycra |
15-20% min elongation |
| |
Goods (over/150gr/sqyd) |
3.6 to 4.4% max growth |
| |
|
96% recovery |
| Dupnot PTM 077 |
All top weight/lycra |
Min 25% elongation |
| |
Goods(under/150gr/sqyd) |
5.4 to 6.6% max growth |
| |
|
94% recovery |
| ASTM -D-3107 |
All bottom weight stretch |
15 to 20% min elongation |
| |
goods |
96% recovery |
| ASTM-D-3107 |
All top weight stretch |
Min 25% elongation |
| |
goods |
94% recovery |
| ASTM 4966 |
All |
No ruptures @10,000 cycles-self fabric |
| ASTM 3885 |
All |
1,000 cycles, minimum |
| AATCC 229 |
All |
1,200 cycles Grade 3 |
| ASTM-3882 |
All |
Bowing-max.1-inch. |
| |
|
Skewing-max. 3% of width or 1.5" max. |
| AATCC 79 |
All Stain Repel Goods |
Initial #6,20xWash #4 |
| AATCC 118 |
All Stain Repel Goods |
Initial #6,20xWash #4 |
| *Divisions can request multiple wash/dry clean test requirements for novelty fabrics and embellishments for shrinkage and evaluations. |
| Color Testing and Specifications |
Test Method |
End Use |
Specification |
| AATCC 107 |
All |
4 or better |
| Color change Staining |
All |
3 or better |
| AATCC 15 |
All |
4 or better |
| Color change Staining |
All |
3 or better |
| AATCC 132 |
All |
4 or better |
| Color change Staining |
All |
3 or better |
| AATCC 612 A |
All |
4 or better |
| Color change Staining |
All |
3 or better |
| AATCC 172 |
All |
4 or better |
| AATCC 8 |
All-(General) |
Dry: 4 or better |
| |
|
Wet:3 or better |
| AATCC 8 |
Blacks and Dark Indigos |
Dry: 3 or better |
| |
|
Wet:1.5 or better |
| AATCC 8 |
Pigments/Indigos |
Dry: 3.5 or better |
| |
|
Wet:2.5 or better |
| AATCC 16E |
(10 fading units) All |
4 or better |
| |
but silk 5 units silk |
|
| F.S.Univ.Ind. |
All whites |
5.0 to 6.0 pH level |
| AATCC 163 |
All dark shades |
4.5 or better |
| AATCC 35 |
Treated fabrics |
Max 1 gram |
| AATCC 22 |
Treated fabrics |
Original 100 rating after |
| |
|
20X wash 70 rating. |
| AATCC 118 |
Treated fabrics |
Original 5 rating after |
| |
|
20X wash 4 rating. |
| Dupont method |
Treated fabrics |
Original 6 rating after |
| |
|
20X wash 4 rating. |
| Formulated based on |
All |
Above test results must |
| above test results |
|
meet above standards. |
| AATCC 109 |
All |
3.5 Rating @ 2 cycles |
Note: For colorfastness on color block programs, contrasitng stripes, prints or trims refer to section |
Testing of Color Block Programs (Knit and Woven) |
|